Another incredible year comes to a close. Looking back, my various assignments took me mostly to the eastern and central parts of Nepal. From Koshi Tappu, where I saw my first Arna Buffalo up close, to the Mustang region, the views and ecozones changed quite a bit. As December ended, the month itself turned into quite an adventure, with Kathmandu and Jagatpur being the primary areas of exploration.

Rose-ringed-Parakeet_nest

The first stop was an overnight trip to the Living Mountain Lab by ICIMOD. I was curious about which species of moths I would find on a night walk in the jungle as winter set in. The walk was eventful, with sightings of spider species like the Huntsman, some Jumping Spiders, many Harvestmen spiders, and Orb-weaving Spiders. By the end of the walk, I documented a total of four different species of spider and around five different species of moths.

Taudaha was a hotspot for birders in December, as a couple of new species of winter migrating birds made a stopover after a long time. A Greylag Goose and a Great Crested Grebe were the main attractions, along with the usual Great Cormorant, Gadwall, Black-crowned Night Heron, Common Kingfisher, White-breasted Waterhen, and other birds that had made the small lake their habitat. The Red-eared Slider Turtle also shared the place, basking in the winter sun. These non-native turtles are considered invasive and often released into local waters when they become too big and difficult to keep as pets.

December also included a road trip with friends to Chitwan National Park. Staying in the Jagatpur area, the hotel’s deck provided a beautiful view of the East Rapti River and the birds and animals that frequented the other side, which was Chitwan National Park.

We planned an early morning jungle safari that started at 7 am. The fog usually clears around 10 am during winter in Chitwan, so we spent the first half of the morning exploring the jungle amidst the fog. The quiet jungle occasionally came alive with the songs of birds but was mostly devoid of mammal sounds.

We spotted various mammals and birds, including the Scaly Thrush, herds of Spotted Deer, a flock of Lesser Whistling-Duck, some Little Cormorants at Lame Tal, a Changeable Hawk-Eagle silently watching its surroundings in the dark jungle, and five Sambar Deer in total. This was my first time seeing so many Sambar Deer, including two large males, in a single drive.

At the end of the drive, we spotted a female Rhino with her calf at a small lake. As there was a good amount of distance between us, the mother wasn’t distracted, and the calf moved around calmly. After a brief observation and documentation, we slowly made our way back to the hotel.

The second half of the day was set aside for a canoe ride in the East Rapati River, but first, we visited the Gharial Breeding Center in Kasara. Since 1978, the center has been protecting the declining Gharial population by raising the young and releasing them into various rivers in Nepal. On previous visits, I hadn’t seen the nasal protuberance on the adult male’s snout, known as the “Ghara,” from which the Gharial gets its name.

Ghara-of-a-Gharial

While walking around, I spotted a Black-hooded Oriole singing in the Sal forest. In one of the turtle enclosures, I saw an Indian Grey Mongoose searching for food. Wild boars roamed the area, and a barking deer was spotted on the outskirts. We had to be cautious of a rhino foraging near the center.

A short drive took us to the canoe launch point, now converted into a park. After strapping on life jackets, we embarked on a 45-minute canoe ride in dugout boats, drifting between the National Park and the buffer zone. We spotted shorebirds, including Ruddy Shelduck, Common Sandpiper, and some Peafowl foraging around. In the trees, I noticed Red-naped Ibis, and a Crested Serpent Eagle basking in the sun on a fallen tree.

Three-Gharial-Crocodile_Meghuli

During the boat ride, we saw both species of crocodiles found in Nepal: the Mugger Crocodile and the Gharial Crocodile. Egrets, Little Cormorants, and Black Storks were also visible. As the ride ended near the hotel, we spotted a Rhino grazing peacefully about 100 meters away.

Early the next morning, before we left for Kathmandu, I sat down near the deck alongside the river to watch the fog drift and observe various birds foraging along the shores. Around 8 am, as the sun finally pierced through the fog, I noticed an Asian Openbill slowly trotting near the shallow area of the river, searching for food. A Little Cormorant perched on a piece of driftwood extended its wings towards the sunlight. Further upstream, two Common Mergansers were busy chasing fish in the shallow waters, working together to herd the fish upstream. Sand Martins emerged from their nests, and egrets could be seen walking along the riverbank.
The two-night, three-day trip flew by, and I observed the rapid changes occurring in Jagatpur, Phatani, and Sauraha.

Back in Kathmandu, it was time to visit another lake on the eastern side of the Kathmandu Valley, called Nagdaha. This is another site in the valley that attracts winter migratory birds. Sitting on the outskirts of the perimeter, I observed and documented a couple of Mallards, some Ferruginous Ducks, a Little Grebe, Eurasian Coots, and White-breasted Waterhens. This place needs some direction in making it conservation-friendly rather than focusing too much on human-centered tourism.

The final stop for the month was Phulchowki. We visited a small watering hole used by birds and animals. Packing a day trip with some lunch, we quietly observed the small pond from a distance. The cold morning air in the small valley between the tops of two hills was slowly warmed by the early morning sun. Frost had covered many sections on the way up, and the sun brought some relief. As the foliage started to brighten, the birds’ songs began to fill the area.

White-browed Fulvettas could be seen moving from one bush to another, while a flock of Rufous Sibias started singing on top of the small tree we were sitting under. Following a bird down the road, I sat further down, observing a couple of bird species silently foraging near the roadside foliage. Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes could be seen moving around, their scratching on the leaf surface being the only sound. At the same moment, more Rufous Sibias appeared.

While focusing on the birds, I heard a distant call. The sound was similar to the “grunts,” like the call of monkeys but at a louder pitch. Confused, as it didn’t sound exactly like a monkey, I noticed multiple sounds and slowly headed up to investigate. Cautiously, I scanned the road as the sounds moved as well. In the distance, I finally saw a couple of Yellow-throated Martens, seemingly agitated. Noticing me, they switched to a small animal path above the road inside the forest, pausing to check if I was a threat. After a few glances, they continued on their way. Moments later, another commotion erupted above a nearby tree, likely another set of Martens fighting over space.

After the commotion, we returned to watching the small pond and observing various bird species coming for a drink or bath. Birds at different times like the White-browed Fulvetta, Rufous Sibia, White-browed Bush-Robin, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, female Himalayan Bluetail, Eurasian Jay, White-throated Laughingthrush, Black-faced Warbler, White-collared Blackbird (male and female), Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Great Barbet, Bar-throated Minla, Hoary-throated Barwing, Dark-breasted Rosefinch, Yellow-browed Tit, Stripe-throated Yuhina, and Darjeeling Woodpecker graced the area. It was quite a spectacle, and I felt fortunate to observe their behavior.

Phulchowki is a treasure that should be protected, but the carelessness and poor garbage management tell a different story. While we quietly enjoyed the view, some visitors disturbed the animals with noise. Apart from this, the protection of the access way is another concern. The constant rains at the end of September have caused many landslides, and some sections of the road may disappear in the next few years if water runoff management isn’t addressed.

Below are some of the species of flora and fauna I observed during December.

Bird:
Rose-ringed Parakeet, Eurasian Coot, Greylag Goose, Great Crested Grebe, Black-crowned Night Heron, Common Kingfisher, Black Drongo, White-breasted Waterhen, Great Cormorant, Lesser Whistling-duck, Oriental Darter, Little Cormorant, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Scaly Thrush, Red-wattled Lapwing, Lesser Adjutant, Black Stork, River Lapwing, Common Merganser, Pied Kingfisher, Asian Openbill, Black-hooded Oriole, Crested Serpent Eagle, Red-naped Ibis, Great Egret, Ruddy Shelduck, Indian Peafowl, Little Egret, Gadwall, Tufted Duck, Ferruginous Duck, Mallard, Common Sandpiper, White-browed Fulvetta, Rufous Sibia, White-browed Bush-Robin, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Himalayan Bluetail ♀, Eurasian Jay, White-throated Laughingthrush, Black-faced Warbler, White-collared Blackbird ♂ ♀, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Great Barbet, Bar-throated Minla, Hoary-throated Barwing, Dark-breasted Rosefinch, Yellow-browed Tit?, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Darjeeling Woodpecker, White Wagtail ♂, Common Tailorbird, Long-tailed Shrike, Common Stonechat, Alexandrine Parakeet, Black Kite, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, etc.

Insect:
Huntsman spider, Jumping Spider, Orb-weaving Spider, Pupa of a possible Common Evening Brown Butterfly, Golden Wave Geometer Moth (Electrophaes zaphenges), Translucent Krananda Moth (Krananda semihyalina), Rusty Emperor Moth (Rhodinia newara), Harvestmen, etc.

Mammal:
Spotted Deer, Sambar Deer, One Horned Rhinoceros, Hog Deer, Barking Deer, Indian Grey Mongoose, Wild Boar, and Yellow-throated Marten.

Reptile:
Mugger Crocodile, Gharial Crocodile, Red-eared Slider Turtle (Non-Native and Invasive).

Plant:
Nepalese Firethorn (Pyracantha crenulata), Winged Pricklyash (Zanthoxylum armatum), Himalayan Maple (Acer oblongum), Holly Tree (Ilexvar, excelsa), Nepal Barberry (Berberis napaulensis), Tree Rhododendron (Rhododendron arboreum), Sweet Osmanthus (Osmanthus fragrans), Yellow Champaca (Magnolia kisopa), Himalayan Ash (Fraxisus floribunda), Needlewood (Schima wallichii), Wax Tree (Toxicodenron succedaneum), Glaucous Oak (Quercus glauca), Box Myrtle (Myrica esculenta), Indian Chesnut (Castanopsis indica), Fishbone Fern (Nephrolepis cordifolia), Sal (Shorea robusta), Simal (Bombax ceiba), Utis (Alnus nepalensis), Pink Knotweed, Various Ferns, Peepal Tree (Ficus religiosa), Lantana (Lantana camara), Pine (Pinus roxburghii), etc.

Ajay Narsingh Rana