May was a beautiful month spent within the Kathmandu Valley, a month reconnecting with nature and discovery. From forested trails of Phulchowki to various sightings outside my house, and a long-awaited visit to Suryabinayak, the month unfolded with beautiful surprises, with a variety of species and experiences.

Morning Walk at Phulchowki

Early in the month, I went birding at Phulchowki with two clients. We started from Godavari Bus Park and slowly made our way up the jeep track, walking around 4–5 km. The forest was alive with morning bird calls as the sun filtered through the canopy. The distant cry of a Crested Serpent-Eagle followed us as we left the small settlement and headed up towards the forest, where we started hearing birds like the Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Pygmy Cupwing, and various laughing thrushes.

Bird sightings included Rufous Sibia, Grey-hooded Warbler, Himalayan Bulbul, Verditer Flycatcher, Scarlet Minivet, Orange-bellied Leafbird ♂, and many more. A special moment was spotting a Blue-bearded Bee-eater through a gap in the foliage as it was perched high up on a tree top for just a few seconds before it disappeared.

This was also the first time I’d seen multiple Eurasian Jays along the same trail throughout the walk—something I hadn’t seen in such frequency before. And then there was a brief but beautiful encounter with a female Black Francolin perched right at eye level on a tree trunk before it flew off into the canopy.

As the morning wore on, clouds started rolling in, signaling the rain that was predicted for later in the day. Thankfully, we had already wrapped up and returned to Kupondol by the time the first drops began to fall. It was one of those satisfying mornings where the weather, sightings, and pace all aligned perfectly.

Backyard Birding

Back home, I made an effort to be more present with the birds around me—something I had neglected lately. I was finally able to document a Purple Sunbird, a bird whose call I’d heard a few times before but never recorded. It’s now a regular visitor, I hear it frequently. Along with it, the regulars—Common Tailorbird, Oriental White-eye, Red-vented Bulbul, Common Myna, and Rose-ringed Parakeet—were all busy with their routines.

After dusk, Spotted Owlets could be heard frequently, though I’ve yet to photograph or record them properly. With rapid urbanization and the shrinking of green spaces around the city, it’s reassuring to see these species still holding on, calling tiny green patches their home. This month reminded me once again how essential it is to create and protect these pockets of vegetation, not just for birds and wildlife, but also for our own well-being.

Birding and Biking at Bhimdhunga

Bhimdhunga continues to be my go-to spot for combining biking and birding. The area offers both new sights and stunning Himalayan views like Manaslu, Ganesh Himal, and more. On different days this month, I heard or spotted species like the Blue-capped Rock Thrush (♂ ♀), Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Black-lored Tit, Black Bulbul, and Pied Bushchat (♂). Also seen were Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Striated Prinia, White-throated Kingfisher, and many others.

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On one ride, I spotted an Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel far off in the treetops, foraging. I couldn’t track it for long before the drizzle started and clouds rolled over the forest. As I packed up, another surprise: an Irrawaddy Squirrel made its way across branches closer to me. As the visibility was very less I wasn’t able to document this moment. The vegetation in this area is lush and growing thick and vibrant, one of the reasons I plan to focus more on documenting insects and other critters next month.

A Long Overdue Visit to Suryabinayak

I finally made it to my friend Dave’s permaculture farm in Suryabinayak after years of promising. The place is perched on a hillside with sweeping views of the northwestern valley and distant mountain ranges. Designed around permaculture, the farm is a blend of education and ecology, complete with dorms, a study hall, and thriving food forests.

Orange-billed Magpies were bold and foraging on plum trees nearby, while Great Barbets called out from the treetops. Parakeets and Common Mynas added to the lively soundscape. Dave led me through his food forest, across a small stream, to a hillside covered in mixed forest—Utis, Chilaune, and more. Here, the ground was carpeted with Pink Rain Lilies in bloom. The short visit felt like a promise, I know I’ll return to spend more time documenting the flora and fauna of this wonderful place.

Nagarjun Open Enduro

This May, I got to be part of the Nagarjun Open Enduro, a mountain bike race held on the western edge of the Kathmandu Valley. I was working as a first responder during the event, stationed inside the forest along one of the three jungle trails where the race took place.

While my focus was on safety and support for the riders, the forest had its own way of drawing my attention. Early in the morning, as the riders got ready and the trail buzzed with quiet anticipation, the jungle was already alive with the songs of the Great Barbet, Blue-throated Barbet, Grey-hooded Warblers, Black-lored Tit, and several others. It was refreshing to listen without the pressure of documenting, just being present and tuned into the rhythm of the woods.

While waiting for the participants to pass by during practice runs and race stages, I noticed woodpeckers flitting between trees, tapping on trunks in search of insects. The forest here is a diverse mix of Utis, Oak, and Kaphal trees (Myrica esculenta), many of which were fruiting. The ripe Kaphal fruits had attracted hikers, some of whom were climbing trees to pick them.

Sadly, a troubling pattern was also visible: many people were tearing off entire branches just to collect the fruit and then discarding them carelessly by the trail. It was disheartening to see this, especially during a season when the trees are just beginning to sprout new leaves and shoots. A little more mindfulness and respect for the forest could go a long way in preserving these thriving ecosystems.

Despite that, my experience at Nagarjun was truly rewarding. The combination of forest trails, rich biodiversity, and the energy of the biking community made it memorable. I’ve now found a new corner of the valley to return to with my camera to explore its flora and fauna in more detail.

While I didn’t venture outside the valley this May, the richness of what I saw and heard reminded me that nature continues to thrive in patches all around us. Sometimes, you don’t need to travel far to be amazed—you just need to slow down and look. Below is a list of the flora and fauna I observed and documented during these May explorations.

Bird:
Rufous Sibia, Grey-hooded Warbler, Himalayan Bulbul, Verditer Flycatcher, Eurasian Jay, Orange-bellied Leafbird ♂, Blue Whistling Thrush, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Black Francolin ♀, Whiskered Yuhina, Scarlet Minivet, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Great Barbet, Red-vented Bulbul, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Asian Koel, Black Drongo, Black-hooded Oriole, Blue-throated Barbet, Purple Sunbird, Common Tailorbird, Spotted Owlet, Collared Scoops Owl, Grey Treepie, Blue-capped Rock Thrush ♂ ♀, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Black-lored Tit, Black Bulbul, Spotted Dove, Common Cuckoo, Pied Bushchat ♂, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, White-throated Kingfisher, Oriental White-eye, Red-vented Bulbul, Striated Prinia, etc.

Heard calls of:
Large Hawk-Cuckoo, either Hill or Rufous-throated Partridge, Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler, White-browed Shrike-Babbler (Himalayan), Pygmy Cupwing.

Mammal:
Barking Deer, Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel, Irrawaddy Squirrel, Small Indian Mongoose.

Reptile:
Oriental Garden Lizard.

Insect:
Red Slug Jewel Moth (Eterusia aedea virescens), Velvet Wasp Male, Praying Mantis, etc.

Plant:
Chilaune (Schima wallichii), Pink Rain Lily (Zephyranthes carinata), Angeree (Melastoma malabathricum), Utis (Alnus nepalensis), Kaphal (Myrica esculenta), Lali gurans (Rhododendron arboretum), Peepal Tree (Ficus religiosa), etc.

Ajay Narsingh Rana