Decades spent documenting the flora and fauna of Nepal and sharing it online have slowly turned into a growing repository of information. As a management student who chose to follow nature and wilderness, I have spent years learning about both the good and the bad that are happening around us. Bringing together all those experiences and sitting down with the aim of creating a coffee-table book about Nepal’s flora and fauna was quite a challenge. Four years of writing, curating, designing, procrastinating, saving enough money and finally self-publishing “The Wild Wonders of Nepal” – I have to say, it has been quite a journey.

This journey came full circle when I launched the book on October 2, inviting all the people who had inspired, encouraged and supported me in doing what I love. Sharing the space with these people, I could finally see that telling stories about nature and wilderness matters. From Ritu di managing the event and Juliana being the master of ceremonies, to Kunda Dixit ji speaking about the book and finally sitting down with Sanjeeni Yonzon ji to talk about conservation, this low-key event turned out to be a beautiful evening. The power of having the right friends, family and seniors supporting you along the way felt just right. It reminded me that these relationships are perhaps the greatest wealth one can have in life. Thank you all for making it to the event and supporting me on this journey.

Before the event, the day began with me reading a book review by Kunda ji in Nepali Times #1331. The review traced my journey, from my childhood and the inspiration I received from my uncle and father to what the book has become today. Beautifully written, it made me wish my father were alive to see how far this journey of documentation has taken me. I still remember those early days when I would show him macro photographs of insects and the smile they brought to his face.

Having finished the book and self-published it, I now find myself taking on the role of a salesperson, pitching the book to different vendors and individuals. My role has also expanded to that of a delivery person, which gives me the opportunity to receive first-hand feedback from readers. The experience has taught me a lot about the support needed to make something like this happen, as well as the support I have received from people who are willing to invest a little of their hard-earned money in a book showcasing the wild wonders of Nepal. Shipping more than a dozen books abroad has also introduced me to another side of the process: logistics and the challenges that come with it.

Overall, this journey is still ongoing, but everything I have seen and experienced so far has been both humbling and inspiring. It has motivated me to work on the second series of the book with less procrastination and, perhaps, find a publisher along the way.

THE REMAINING MONTH

With the book launch behind me, it was time to prepare for the Annapurna Circuit mountain bike trip, which would dominate the remaining days of October. Bike training continued with a few trips to my favourite place, Bhimdhunga, and I was also able to fit in a hike with some friends.

Repeated visits to this place have allowed me to observe changes in its flora and fauna. Although there was less documentation and more riding this month, it was still an educational experience. Taking a couple of friends and their families, including their children, on a hike to the area was also insightful. I had the opportunity to interact with the kids and introduce them to the flora and fauna the place had to offer. An added bonus was that they got to enjoy the waterfall, which had a little more volume than it usually does during the peak of winter and spring.

The kids were able to spot butterflies, snails, slugs, earthworms, moths, a squirrel, and a few species of birds. Spending time walking in nature was a welcome change of pace for them, and the visual learning experience helped them understand how nature functions, even if it was just for a couple of hours.

The Annapurna Circuit mountain bike trip began, as usual, with the weather staying at its best. Our biggest annual festival was in full swing around Besi Sahar, and as we headed towards Tal, we could see people returning home to celebrate.

Autumn was slowly setting in, and the green hues surrounding the tall hills were beginning to change to shades of orange and yellow in some areas. As this was a work trip, I spent less time documenting the surroundings, but I didn’t forget to pause occasionally and notice the flora and fauna around me. Having missed the opportunity to head up to Manang and Mustang during the monsoon this year to document mushrooms, I was overjoyed to receive some dried wild mushrooms from the owner of a restaurant where I usually stop for lunch.

The landscape above Koto had changed considerably due to the flooding that had occurred a couple of weeks before our trip. Chame had also suffered significant damage, and the main bridge connecting Chame with the upper parts of Manang was submerged by the river. Locals had placed large planks across the top chord of the bridge, finally making it possible for jeeps to pass through.

As we passed Dhukkur Pokhari, I tried to look for migratory birds but couldn’t spot any. Further along, while passing through Humde and Braga, I spotted a Bearded Vulture flying overhead.

Our rest day in Manang was less eventful, with sightings limited to Red-billed Choughs, a Bearded Vulture, Wallcreeper, and some migratory ducks (possibly Eurasian Teals) in Gangapurna Lake. As we headed towards Thorong Phedi, there were several occasions when I spotted Bearded Vultures. From Ledar onwards, we also started seeing Blue Sheep.

Thorong Phedi had experienced excessive snowfall a couple of weeks earlier, and I could see some of the damage it had caused to the infrastructure, including a slight tilt in the suspension bridge connecting the area.

Blue Sheep could be seen near the camp, and during a hike towards High Camp, I was able to spot Tibetan Snowcocks, Snow Pigeons, Red-billed Choughs and Red-fronted Rosefinches. There was no photographic documentation this time around, but hopefully, I can make a solo trip next spring and document some of these species, including the Pika that I wasn’t able to spot this year.

Crossing the pass, heading down towards Mustang and eventually finishing the trip in Tatopani, it was interesting to observe the changes in vegetation as we moved from the alpine desert to the lush green subtropical landscape. The apple trees between Muktinath and Tukuche were also bearing fruit. The change in season was evident in the Himalayan Poplars (Populus ciliata) around the Jhong area, which had turned yellow. The trees around the fields in Kagbeni were displaying similar autumn colours.

As we headed towards Pokhara, the weather remained clear, and the majestic mountain vistas mesmerised everyone. Taking a boat to the other side of Phewa Lake and hiking up to the Peace Stupa has always been a pleasure, as the vegetation in the forest is always welcoming. While crossing the lake, I could see several Red-spot Jezebels flying around the forest, with some ending up on the lake, where they would eventually become food for fish. I could also see Great Cormorants flying from one shoreline to the other.

Along the hiking trail, we spotted a Barking Deer leisurely munching on grass and moving slowly around the forest edges. Sailors, coppers, Paris Peacocks and Purple Sapphires were flying around. The forest was filled with blooming Katus (Castanopsis indica) trees, and the fragrance of their flowers filled the air.

The view from the top of the Peace Stupa was beautiful, with vistas of Mt. Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhre (Fishtail), Annapurna South, Annapurna I, and many more peaks. The sounds of birds could also be heard coming from the forest below, although the natural ambience was interrupted by loud music playing along the opposite shores of the lake.

After finishing the hike and reaching the other side of the lake, I realised that the growing influx of tourists is certainly a boon for the local economy, and it should remain so. However, there should also be some limitations on where people are allowed to go while boating. The riparian zones (transitional areas where aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems meet, along the edges of rivers, streams, lakes and wetlands) on the other side of the lake need to be monitored. Not every stretch of shoreline should be accessible to tourists. I could see Cormorants flying in and out of these areas, even as people were landing their boats along the shores.

There needs to be some breathing space for wildlife in these zones, where species can come to drink water or forage at their own pace, without having to adjust to constant human presence. Another concern is waste disposal. Food crumbs and discarded leftovers can also affect the health of wildlife that may consume them.

It has been a busy month, with very little time spent documenting species, but it has also been a good opportunity to observe nature up close. Below are a few of the species I was able to document or encounter during October.

Bird:

White-crested Laughingthrush, Blue whistling Thrush, Himalayan Black-lored Tit, Gray Treepie, Common Tailorbird, Rufous Treepie, Bearded Vulture, Spotted Dove, Black Bulbul, Black Kite, Tibetan Snowcock, Common Hoopoe, Snow Pigeon, Red-billed Chough, Red-fronted Rosefinch, White Wagtail, Black Drongo, Wallcreeper, Indian Black Ant (Camponotus compressus), etc.

Invertebrates:

Sugarcane Looper Moth (Mocis frugalis), Punchinello Butterfly, Grass Lynx Spiders (Genus Oxyopes), Knotweeds (Genus Persicaria), Typical Orbweavers (Subfamily Araneinae), Trashline Orbweavers (Genus Cyclosa), Bhutan Sergeant (Limenitis jina), Velvet Ant, Blue Marsh Hawk (Orthetrum glaucum), Praying Mantis, Long-brand Bushbrown (Mycalesis visala), etc.

Mammal:
Barking Deer, Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel, Blue Sheep.

Flora:
Bristletips (Oxyspora paniculata), Horsetails (Genus Equisetum), Skyflower (Duranta erecta), Osbeckia chinensis, Indian chestnut (Castanopsis indica), Himalayan Poplar (Populus ciliata), Himalayan Hemlock (Tsuga dumosa), Willow-Leaved Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae salicifolia), Okras (Genus Abelmoschus), Gingers (Family Zingiberaceae), Candelabra Bush (Senna alata), Gerard’s Jointfir (Ephedra gerardiana), Jasmine (Genus Jasminum), Sleeping Hibiscus (Malvaviscus penduliflorus), etc.

Ajay Narsingh Rana