Travelling west became the highlight of the last month of the year, not just once, but twice.

Let’s start the month with the Wilderness First Aid course we taught in Pokhara. At the beginning of December, we trained 14 river guides in Yamdi (on the way to Hemja).

The training was held at a campsite on the edge of the Seti River with views of Fishtail Mountain, which made breaks pleasant for short walks. Over the five days, there were good raptor sightings: Egyptian Vultures were frequent visitors scavenging along the river banks, and White-rumped Vultures arrived from time to time. I often saw them coming from the north, so I guessed they were heading from the vulture-restaurant area in Gha Chowk. I also spotted a Red-headed Vulture flying east, following the river corridor.

Black Kites were abundant; a couple of individuals aggressively defended territory, even chasing other raptors and the occasional crow that came by to taunt them. While watching the sky, I thought I saw a Crested Serpent Eagle soaring above, but I couldn’t document it closely. Plumbeous Water Redstarts, both male and female, foraged on both sides of the river. Siberian Stonechat, Oriental White-eye, and Long-tailed Shrike were visible around a small patch of farmland.

Overall, teaching WFA at the Seti River’s edge was an amazing experience: role-plays of many scenarios, watching the sun strike the mountains, and enjoying the local flora and fauna around Yamdi.

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After the course finished, I drove to Bharatpur for the night, and the next day, I was picked up by Prakash dai and Abishkar dai in Pulchowk, Bharatpur. We began a road trip to explore wetlands and national parks in western Nepal via the Mahendra Highway. Our first stop was Jagadishpur Taal, a well-known wintering site for migratory waterbirds.

Arriving late in the afternoon, we set up cameras and began observing waterbirds. Red-crested Pochards were numerous; a few Little Grebes dived near an island. Bronze-winged Jacana females and juveniles waded effortlessly, their long toes allowing them to walk on a patch of dried aquatic vegetation near pink water lilies. A couple of Common Moorhens were farther out where vegetation patches grew.

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Common Pochard were present but seemed fewer than in previous years. Flocks of Lesser Whistling Duck worked the lake, flying and landing in different areas. Red-wattled Lapwings patrolled the shallows, and at sunset, flocks of Red-naped Ibis flew east to roost. Plain Prinia remained common along the lake edges.

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We stayed at a local homestay about 500 m from the lake. While sitting down for snacks, we spotted a Jungle Owlet right outside the house. The next morning, we walked through a nearby community forest and visited a small historic lake. Lucky for us, the winter fog hadn’t set in yet; warm morning light picked out dark corners of the forest. A Greater Racket-tailed Drongo perched in a shaded branch, silhouetted against the sunlit understory. During the walk, we also saw Spotted Dove, Asian Pied Starling, Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker, Long-tailed Shrike, Jungle Babbler, White-throated Kingfisher, Scaly-breasted Munia, Black-hooded Oriole, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Nuthatch, and White-bellied Drongo.

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Our guide wanted to show us Sagrahawa Lake, but it was choked with Common Water Hyacinth. As a historic site, the lake requires permission for removal work, and as a result, the invasive plant had taken over. Left unchecked, water hyacinth degrades lake ecosystems, and during the migratory season, clearing it should be a priority.

Back at Jagadishpur, after photographing Black-winged Kite, Lesser Adjutant, and Purple Swamphen, we said our gratitudes and headed toward Banke District. On the road, we stopped to photograph a kettle of vultures, mostly White-rumped Vultures with some Himalayan Vultures. A curious bike rider stopped to talk; we discussed the decline in vulture populations and the need for conservation. During the conversation, he emphasized that planting Simal trees is paramount, noting that this aspect has been somewhat overlooked in his region. Simal, being a tall tree with long, outward-stretching branches, is favored by raptors for nesting and roosting. His concern stemmed not only from being a resident of the area but also from his professional role within the forestry division.

Further along the highway, we saw Egyptian Vultures feeding on a carcass in a field while a Himalayan Vulture basked on the other side of the road. It surprised me that we did not see a single Sarus Crane in the fields; perhaps human activity in many areas is deterring them.

We also stopped at Bagar Baba Dham Lake near Lamai and saw flocks of Lesser Whistling Duck, Common Moorhen, and Bronze-winged Jacana, but moved on as we needed to reach Gabar Valley on the outskirts of Banke National Park. We arrived late and planned the next day’s activities.

Banke National Park, established in 2010, covers about 550 km². We visited the Gabar Valley buffer zone. My previous visit had been very short, and I was keen to see more. Our focus was jungle walks aimed at locating Four-horned Antelope and, if lucky, a Striped Hyena. Over a couple of days, we had limited success: sightings were mostly birds and small mammals, including Wallcreeper, Common Kingfisher, Spotted Deer, and Barking Deer. I also found the remains of a large crab on a stony riverbank.

Outside the park, around Gabar village, we finally recorded Flycatcher, White-browed Fantail, and Brown Rock Chat. A flock of Plum-headed Parakeet foraged on basil near the buffer forest.

One gripe from the Banke visit is the shortage of well-trained guides and trackers. As a dry-terai park with limited rivers and streams, including one that is now turned into a reservoir, Banke needs strategies to ensure visitors do more than a jeep ride: guides should be able to provide good tracking, briefings, and structured walks. Our jungle walk targeted Four-horned Antelope, but lacked reliable data on previous sightings; speculation too often dictated our search.

On a prior visit, I had similar frustrations: undertrained guides, rushed experiences, and a tendency to focus on a single flagship species rather than the broader ecosystem. Over time, I’ve noticed a worrying trend in other national parks as well: some guides prioritise photography over clients, give minimal briefings, rush sightings (disturbing wildlife), play bird calls or use Bluetooth speakers, and generally erode the balance between tourism and conservation. Storytelling and context should accompany sightings, not just ticking off species.

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From Banke, we headed to Thakurdawara near Bardiya National Park and stayed at our guide Ram dai’s accommodation, Royal Tiger Cottage, a cluster of four traditional cottages typical of the region.

Before reaching Thakurdawara, we stopped at Barhaiya Lake near Nepalgunj, a wise suggestion by Ram dai. A lake relied upon by local fishers has also become a haven for migratory birds. We spent three hours documenting species: Oriental Honey-buzzard, Lesser Whistling Duck, Purple Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Great Cormorant, Grey Heron, Woolly-necked Stork, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Tufted Duck, Eurasian Coot, Asian Openbill, Wood Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Knob-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, Intermediate Egret, Grey Lapwing, Indian Spot-billed Duck, Northern Shoveler, and Indian Silverbill. We left only when the sun set and the birds became silhouettes on the water.

In Bardiya, Ram dai guided us on half-day jungle safaris, jungle walks, grassland birding, and a sundowner focused on tiger sightings. A morning jeep drive produced Spotted Deer and Barking Deer, and birds such as the Lesser Adjutant and calls from Great Slaty Woodpecker, which we later located foraging in the trees.

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On safari, we recorded Collared Falconet, Sandpiper, Green-billed Malkoha, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Tarai Gray Langur, Bengal Monitor Lizard, and Gharial. While waiting at a crossroads after hearing a Spotted Deer call, I watched a lone wild Asian Elephant cross a road about 150 metres away, a silent, majestic sight.

After the jeep safari, we visited the grasslands to look for owls and grassland birds. We photographed Spotted Owlet, Indian Robin, Pied Bushchat, and a White-naped Woodpecker. While waiting for a tiger on the Girwa’s banks, a flock of Red Avadavat fed in the grass, and a Striated Babbler sat on a distant branch. A tiger sighting eluded us that evening, but a morning tourist later showed me photos of a mother and two cubs drinking on the opposite bank, a reminder that good sightings happen unpredictably.

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We began our return to Kathmandu via a 573-km road trip, divided into two sections, with an overnight stop in Amaltari. Before the last long drive, we took an early morning canoe trip, a classic safari experience. A short jungle walk in Namuna Buffer Zone Community Forest led to the canoe launch; water levels were lower than on previous visits.

Floating on the Narayani River, we saw Gharial, a couple of Mugger Crocodiles, Ruddy Shelduck along the banks, an Asian Openbill, and many Sand Martins. The mountains were also visible. A couple of White-rumped Vultures circled above while a crow chased and bit at one. On the farmland while heading to the hotel, I spotted Grey Pansy,  Peacock Pansy butterflies, and a Woolly-necked Stork. Back at the hotel, we watched an Indian Grey Mongoose grooming in a patch of sun, and an Asian Green Bee-eater perched above, watching for bees.

Back in Kathmandu, just a week later, I was on the road again, this time to Sauraha and Bardiya to finally run Wilderness First Aid (WFA) trainings for nature and safari guides. After six years seeking funds, I secured support from the Sustainable Tourism Project (a joint NTB–UNDP initiative) and, with Himalayan Medics, organised WFA courses in Sauraha and Bardiya.

In Sauraha, with a packed training schedule, our other instructor, Niren, and I managed a few bird and deer sightings before heading to Thakurdawara for the second training. On the road between Ramnagar and Jayanagar via Siddhartha Nagar, we saw at least ten Sarus Cranes, three Nilgai, and a Lesser Adjutant, though we could not stop the jeep to document them because of time constraints. The Thakurdawara training was busy, but on the final day, I photographed Brown Rock Chat, Rufous Treepie, and Lineated Barbet on the way to the hotel. In total, we trained 49 nature /safari guides in Wilderness First Aid across both locations.

While staying at Ram dai’s place, I was able to photograph a Common Greenshank on a pond and saw River Lapwing, Pied Kingfisher, and Yellow Wagtail in Hattimachan. With the training done and a flight booked to Kathmandu, we headed to Nepalgunj and stopped at the Blackbuck Conservation Area midway to do some wildlife spotting. We spent an hour watching a herd of Blackbuck; Ram dai also located an Indian Courser, and nearby, we found a Lesser Golden-backed Woodpecker and a White-eyed Buzzard. As light faded, we headed to Nepalgunj to prepare for the morning flight.

Overall, December was amazing. Many kilometres by road and long days were exhausting, but the variety of terrain, flora, and fauna that Nepal offers made the trip truly rewarding. Below is a list of species I saw or documented during the month.

Bird:
Plumbeous Water Redstart ♂ ♀, Siberian Stonechat ♀, Long-tailed Shrike, White-rumped Vulture, Egyptian Vulture, Red-headed Vulture, Red-crested Pochard ♂ ♀, Red-wattled Lapwing, Little Grebe ♂ ♀, Bronze-winged Jacana ♂ juv, Plain Prinia, Common Moorhen ♂, Common Pochard ♂, Lesser Whistling Duck, Black-winged Kite, Pond Heron, Little Cormorant, Baya Weavers, Jungle Owlet, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Spotted Dove, Asian Pied Starling, Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker, Long-tailed Shrike, Jungle Babbler, White-throated Kingfisher, Scaly-breasted Munia ♂ ♀, Black-hooded Oriole, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Nuthatch, White-bellied Drongo, Red-naped Ibis, Lesser Adjutant, Purple Swamphen, Himalayan Vulture, River Lapwing, Common Kingfisher, Wallcreeper, Flycatcher, White-browed Fantail, Plum-headed Parakeet ♂ ♀, Brown Rock Chat, Oriental Honey-buzzard, Purple Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron, Great Cormorant, Grey Heron, Woolly-necked Stork, Pheasant-tailed Jacana ♀, Tufted Duck, Eurasian Coot, Asian Openbill, Wood Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover, Knob-billed Duck, Ruddy Shelduck, Intermediate Egret, Grey Lapwing, Indian Spot-billed Duck ♂, Northern Shoveler ♀, Indian Silverbill, Great Slaty Woodpecker, Collared Falconet, Sandpiper, Green-billed Malkoha, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Spotted Owlet, Indian Robin, Pied Bushchat, White-naped Woodpecker, Red Avadavat, Striated Babbler, Sand Lark, Verditer Flycatcher, Black Drongo, Greater Coucal, Eurasian Hoopoe, Sand Martin, Asian green bee-eater, River Lapwing, Pied Kingfisher, Yellow Wagtail, Rufous Treepie, Common Greenshank, Lineated Barbet, Indian Courser, Lesser Golden-backed Woodpecker, White-eyed Buzzard, White-capped Redstart, Sarus Crane, etc.            

Insect:
Common Pierrot Butterfly, Tiger Beetle, Indian Oakblue Butterfly, Bushbrown Butterfly, Antlion sp., Grey Pansy Butterfly, Peacock Pansy Butterfly, Indian Tortoiseshell Butterfly, etc.

Mammal:
Barking Deer, Spotted Deer, Tarai Gray Langur, Asian Elephant, Indian Grey Mongoose, Nilgai, Blackbuck.

Reptile:
Bengal Monitor Lizard, Gharial, Oriental Garden Lizard, Muggar Crocodile.

Flora:
Indian Squirrel Tail, Yellow Ginger, Common Lantana, Pink Water Lily (Nymphaea pubescens), Water Snowflake (Nymphoides indica), Dwarf Date Palm, Curry Tree, Burflower Tree, Bengal Quince, Chinese Apple, Orchid Tree, Sal Tree, Simal Tree, etc.

As the year comes to an end, I would like to thank everyone who has supported the blog and helped carry it into its tenth year. Thank you once again, and I wish you all a very happy New Year 2026, filled with many memorable flora and fauna sightings.

Ajay Narsingh Rana