Click the play button to hear the sounds of the forest while reading the blog.

As the tourism season for mountain biking slowly came to a close for me, the beginning of May was mostly spent as a freelancer planning the upcoming months till September around personal projects I want to complete, while also looking out for assignments that come my way as a photographer, wilderness first aid trainer, and through other outdoor-related work. There is one personal project in particular that I have to complete in May, which I will announce in my June “What I Saw” edition.

Figuring that most of the month would be spent around Kathmandu, I started May with a mountain biking and birding session at one of my favorite birding spots on the western edge of Kathmandu Valley. This ride was mostly focused on observing the terrain, foliage growth, and overall trail safety, as there are sections where small landslides occur during the monsoon. This would help me plan my macro photography trips in the coming months. There were also gutter construction works happening along a section of the jeep track, which was a wise move as the monsoon would otherwise wash the road away if not managed properly.

While there were some disturbances in the area, I was still able to do some birding. Riding around the trails, I spotted birds like the Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler and Orange-bellied Leafbird busily foraging, while a Himalayan Prinia sang from the top of an electric pole. I was also on the lookout for the elusive Spiny Babbler, but this time I wasn’t lucky. Black Bulbuls were singing loudly as they moved around feeding, while the soft-toned calls of the Scarlet Minivet changed the mood of the forest as I watched a pair of females and a bright male move from tree to tree. I also quite literally spotted some Spotted Doves, along with a Blue-capped Rock Thrush, whose male sang proudly from the top of a tree branch.

• 

• 

It is the breeding season for many birds, and there was constant activity as birds hurried around searching for food for their hatchlings.

As I headed back home, I heard the calls of a couple of Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoos, though they remained hidden within the dense foliage. After waiting patiently for some time, I was finally able to document one after it flew to a nearby leafless tree. I will definitely be on the lookout for them again on my next visit.

I have been returning to this area for birding for quite some time now, and it is always exciting to realize just how many species of birds and critters still remain to be observed, let alone documented. I can’t wait for the coming monsoon months to document some of the incredible insect diversity found here.

Another trip within the valley took me to Phulchowki for birding, with the main focus being the Satyr Tragopan (Munal), which many photographers had been documenting over the past month. Heading up the hill with Prakash dai and Abishkar dai, we spotted several Kalij Pheasants foraging along the way. As we reached the area where sightings had been happening, and with no one else nearby, we quietly soaked in the ambiance. We had arrived early in the morning, and the sunlight had yet to reach the forest floor. At around 2600 meters in elevation, the air was cold as well.

While focusing on the crossing area, we suddenly heard the call of the Tragopan around 30–40 meters below us. On a quiet edge of a dense and foggy hill forest where predators like leopards and bears roam, the call of this pheasant can feel quite eerie, almost like the cry of a wailing child. Before we could fully process the moment, a Green-tailed Sunbird started visiting the bushes near us, and in typical birder and photographer fashion, we got busy watching its movement or, taking pictures of it.

While we were occupied, a couple of birders arrived and parked their bikes near ours. I wasn’t acquainted with them, though conversations were already happening with the other two dai. After setting up their gear, they asked us to follow them to another nearby location, around 100 meters away, where the bird had also been sighted.

As we settled down, one of the birders placed an object on a tree stump further below before returning to his position. It turned out to be a Bluetooth speaker, which he activated and began repeatedly playing the call of the Satyr Tragopan.

The constant blaring of the bird call through the speaker was the last straw for me, and I quietly moved away to focus on photographing other birds instead. Later, I heard him justify the action by saying; paraphrasing his words “As photographers, it is important for us  to use calls to capture the moment. For birders and biologists, it’s okay not to.”

As bird photography continues to grow in popularity, it is important to understand the privilege we have as humans before encroaching on wildlife habitats and justifying such actions. Wildlife photography should not become a competition over who can showcase the sharpest or most bokeh-filled image on social media.

Here are a few reasons why using playback speakers while birding or photographing wildlife, especially during mating and breeding seasons, is not a good idea:

• Predator Exposure: Playback can lure birds out of cover, making them more vulnerable to predators.
• Unnecessary Energy Burn: Birds respond to playback as if facing a real rival, wasting valuable energy needed for feeding, migration, or raising young.
• Nest Abandonment: During breeding season, playback may distract parents from their nests, leaving eggs or chicks vulnerable.
• Disruption of Natural Behaviour: Artificial calls interfere with communication, mating rituals, and territorial behaviour.
• Stress on Birds: Repeated playback can increase stress levels, especially among sensitive or endangered species.
• Ethical Concerns: Using speakers purely for photographs can disturb wildlife and alter natural behaviour.
• Habitat Disturbance: Playback may also disturb nearby birds and other wildlife species.

We need to understand that it is our own desire to see and photograph birds in their natural habitat. That selfish desire should not dictate their way of life or disrupt their habitat. Patience is a virtue, and we should continue to practice it. Wildlife habitats are already under pressure from poaching, and many areas are filled with traps. Being considerate is essential for the well-being of biodiversity, especially during the sensitive mating and breeding season.

Leaving the two birders behind, we continued upward towards the Phulchowki peak, watching the changing foliage and sky while the calls of the Large Hawk-Cuckoo echoed throughout the forest. At the top, we managed to spot and photograph a Verditer Flycatcher and a soaring Black Eagle. While having tea, we also watched an Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel cross the trail before disappearing into the forest thicket.

On our way back down towards Phulchowki base, we passed the two birders waiting for the Tragopan, still blaring the call of the bird. On our way down, we stopped near a small pond where different birds and mammals often come to drink water. Although the area was quiet that day, we were able to document a Long-billed Thrush scratching through the ground in search of food. We also finally managed to photograph a Large Hawk-Cuckoo perched high on a tree branch, its call growing louder between long pauses.

Further down near the base, we met another group of birders who had discovered a nesting area of the Small Niltava. The male and female were busily foraging and carrying food back to the nest. Every now and then, they became agitated whenever a Rufous Sibia ventured near the nesting area. After quietly observing and documenting the birds from a distance, I headed back to Kathmandu, as I had a meeting related to an upcoming trip to Bardiya in the next couple of days.

BARDIYA

It was time to head back to Bardiya, this time for work as a co-lead alongside Suraj. We were leading a familiarization trip with travel influencers Rishav, Sandhya, and Saugat, showcasing what the region has to offer. Our primary focus was Dalla, near Bardiya National Park. With Dalla as the priority, I had planned a circuit itinerary that would allow us to explore several areas during our two-night, three-day trip, starting and ending at Nepalgunj Airport.

Catching the first flight out of Kathmandu, observing the beautiful Himalayan ranges in the north and trying to identify the names of the peaks, we landed at 8:45 a.m. Since most of us had skipped a proper breakfast, we headed straight to a famous biryani restaurant in town before beginning our two-hour journey to Dalla Community Homestay near Bardiya National Park. It was the second week of May, and midday temperatures were already soaring above 30°C.

We made a stop at Babai Bridge along the Mahendra Highway in hopes of spotting Golden Mahseer. Unfortunately, water visibility was not as good as during my previous visit, and we were unable to see any. On the bright side, we did spot several Gharial and Mugger Crocodiles, some basking on the riverbank and others swimming through the water. Further downstream, I spotted a Red-naped Ibis, while a Striated Heron stood perched on the footing of one of the bridge columns, intently watching the water below. I also noticed a turtle surface briefly, but was unable to document it properly or identify the species.

I waited for it to resurface, but couldn’t stay out much longer as the summer heat intensified and the cool air inside the vehicle became far more appealing.

Upon reaching Dalla, we checked into Dalla Community Homestay No. 18. After lunch and a short rest, we headed towards the banks of the Girwa River in the late afternoon, where tiger sightings had been reported over the previous few days. It was largely a waiting game, but while scanning the riverbanks, I spotted both male and female Purple Sunbirds, several Red-wattled Lapwings, and a pair of River Lapwings. I could also hear the call of a Black Francolin, though it remained hidden from view.

After a couple of hours of waiting and a brief rush of excitement following a possible sighting, the tiger once again remained elusive, likely due to the commotion created by people nearby. As the sun set, we watched Spotted Deer slowly grazing before retreating towards the forest. Soon after, we returned to our homestay.

The following morning, after having a tasty local breakfast of Dhikri and curry, we set out early for a jeep safari inside Bardiya National Park. The trip produced plenty of bird sightings, along with three species of deer and a Greater One-horned Rhinoceros. The tiger managed to avoid us once again, but the safari itself was rewarding.

• 

• 

The calls of the Indian Pitta echoed through the forest, and we were fortunate enough to photograph one nearby while it was actively calling. It was also the breeding season for the Asian Paradise Flycatcher, and I spotted females on several occasions as they searched for food. Greater Racket-tailed Drongos could be seen darting through the forest interior, while I managed a few brief glimpses of a White-rumped Shama. We also came across two tiny Red-wattled Lapwing chicks, almost perfectly camouflaged among the grasslands. Asian Green Bee-eaters added colour to the safari as they gracefully swooped through the air in pursuit of insects.

We had booked a half-day safari, and while making our way out of the park, we spotted a Changeable Hawk-Eagle perched above the trail. Nearby, a Streak-throated Woodpecker searched for insects along the trunk of a tree. The safari concluded with a visit to the Crocodile Breeding Center.

• 

• 

Afterwards, we checked into Tiger Track Eco Lodge and prepared for an evening cultural program arranged by the hotel, located about 1.7 kilometres away. What I appreciated most about this experience was that the Tharu cultural performance took place in a proper community setting rather than at a hotel. Local residents showcased their culture and served traditional food after the performance beside a pond used for fish farming.

Children and adults from the village also gathered to watch the program, which helps encourage participation and cultural preservation in the long run. This felt particularly important after learning that only a handful of people in the community could still play the traditional drums essential for the dances. In my opinion, this model is far more meaningful than what is commonly practiced in Chitwan, where dance groups perform in hotels for the tourists.

Back at the hotel, and before calling it a night, we finalized plans for our journey back to Kathmandu the next day, identifying a few interesting stops along the route. We had also received an invitation for breakfast at Burhan Wilderness Camps, and the following morning, a jeep picked us up from the hotel and drove us to the river crossing point about ten minutes away.

Crossing the Girwa River, we arrived at the camp, which is situated on an island. With the monsoon season approaching, the tented accommodations had already been dismantled and placed in storage, with the treehouse remaining.

Climbing to the rooftop of the treehouse revealed stunning views of the surrounding landscape. I could only imagine how beautiful the sunsets must be from that vantage point. However, my attention was soon diverted by the number of butterflies fluttering through the grasslands below. Armed with my macro lens, I attempted to photograph a Plain Tiger butterfly. While doing so, and while also trying to capture a nearby dragonfly, a juvenile Pied Bush Chat landed on a Lantana bush while its parents perched on grass stalks nearby.

• 

• 

As breakfast was being prepared, I walked down to the riverbank and spent some time documenting insects, including a Crimson Marsh Glider, Small Brown Paper Wasps, and a White Rice Leafhopper. While observing the surroundings, I noticed a Brown Crake slowly foraging along the edge of the river, partially concealed by vegetation. Nearby, I also spotted a Cinnamon Bittern before it disappeared into cover.

Breakfast was served on a table set out in the grassland overlooking the river. While eating, we spotted a Woolly-necked Stork and an Indian Peafowl on the opposite bank.

Although I would have loved to stay longer and continue documenting the area’s flora and fauna, reality prevailed. We had a 3 p.m. flight back to Kathmandu and a couple of stops to make before reaching Nepalgunj Airport. After thanking the team there for their hospitality, delicious food, and a wonderful ambiance, we headed to my other favourite stop of the trip: the Blackbuck Conservation Area in Gulariya.

Almost immediately after entering, a young Blackbuck hippity hopped (can’t find a proper word to describe the way it moved other than this) across the grassland before stopping some 40–50 metres away to observe us and leave. We spent around 45 minutes exploring the reserve. I searched for grassland birds such as the Indian Courser, but wasn’t successful this time. My observations were limited to species like the Asian Green Bee-eater and Red-wattled Lapwing. However, I was able to photograph several impressive male Blackbucks as well as herds of females and juveniles.

The Bardiya trip eventually came to an end. It had been an opportunity to explore new places, revisit familiar landscapes with fresh perspectives, and deepen my understanding of the region. Every visit to Bardiya over the years has been memorable, and I hope future visits continue to be just as insightful, if not more so.

Back in Kathmandu, and only a couple of days later, I was once again out of the valley for another assignment. This time, I was documenting a mural being created at Shree Kalika Devi Adharbhut Vidyalaya, a rammed-earth school building constructed by Kids of Kathmandu in Khani Gaun, Makwanpur.

• 

• 

I had passed this area several times while travelling to Hetauda and had always wanted to stop and explore. The rolling hills, patchwork farmlands, and scattered forest patches were beautiful from the road. It seems that wish was finally fulfilled.

The four-day, three-night stay passed quickly as I documented the mural’s progress and occasionally helped the impressive team led by Rupak with painting. During lunch breaks, students would gather around with bright, curious eyes, eager to see the artwork evolve. Their excitement made the completion of the mural even more rewarding.

During my stay, waking up at 5 a.m. continued to become the routine. Each morning was dedicated to exploring the surrounding landscape before the 9 a.m. breakfast and leaving for work. Walking through the settlement, I noticed many traditional heritage homes slowly being replaced by boxy concrete structures that felt somewhat soulless in comparison. Focused primarily on documenting wildlife, I missed the opportunity to properly photograph these buildings, but I suspect this won’t be my last visit. Hopefully, the houses remain standing until then.

I eventually found a ridgeline that became my favourite birding spot. It provided sweeping views of forests stretching both east and west. Further below, near a small river, seasonal pools created by pre-monsoon rains dotted the rocky banks.

Over the two morning walks I did, I recorded Green-backed Tit, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Mountain Bulbul, Scarlet Minivet, Black-chinned Babbler, Streaked Laughingthrush, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, and Plumbeous Water Redstart, Black Bulbul, alongside more familiar species such as Red-vented Bulbul, Himalayan Bulbul, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Common Myna, and Barn Swallow.

The trails themselves were equally rewarding, lined with Kakoli Ginger, Mock Strawberry, Great Barberry, Pink Knotweed, and a variety of ferns.

Around the school grounds, which bordered a forest, I also observed a female Small Niltava, Spotted Dove, Rufous Sibia, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Long-tailed Broadbill, a flock of Blue Magpies, and a Blue-capped Rock Thrush carrying an insect in its beak.

Overall, it was a wonderful month of exploration and learning. Below are some of the species of flora and fauna that I was able to observe and document throughout May.

Bird:
Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Himalayan Prinia, Orange-bellied Leafbird ♂, Black Bulbul, Scarlet Minivet, Spotted Dove, Blue-capped Rock Thrush ♂ ♀, Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Black Eagle, Verditer Flycatcher, Large-billed Crow, Green-tailed Sunbird, Whistler’s Warbler, Long-billed Thrush, Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Small Niltava ♂ ♀, Rufous Sibia, Long-tailed Broadbill, Barn Swallow, Green-backed Tit, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Mountain Bulbul, Scarlet Minivet, Black-chinned Babbler, Streaked Laughingthrush, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Rufous Sibia, Himalayan Bulbul, Eurasian Jay, Blue Whistling Thrush, Red-billed Blue Magpie, Great Barbet, Red-vented Bulbul, Plumbeous Water Redstart, Oriental Magpie-Robin, Black Drongo, Purple Sunbird ♂ ♀, Common Tailorbird, Grey Treepie, Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Black-lored Tit, White-throated Kingfisher, Oriental White-eye, Red-vented Bulbul, Ashy Prinia, Red-whiskered Bulbul, Red-naped Ibis, Asian Openbill, Indian Pitta, Little Cormorant, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Red-wattled Lapwing, Streak-throated Woodpecker, Changeable Hawk-eagle, Siberian Stonechat, Paddyfield Pipit, Brown Crake, Woolly-necked Stork, Indian Peacock, Asian Green Bee-eater, Straited Heron, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Lesser Adjutant Stork, etc.

Mammal:
Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel, Barking Deer, Small Indian Mongoose, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, One-horned Rhino, Hog Deer, Tarai Gray Langur, Blackbuck.

Reptiles & Amphibians:
Oriental Garden Lizard, Gharial Crocodile, Mugger Crocodile, Indus Valley Bullfrog (Hoplobatrachus tigerinus), etc.

Insect:
Thin-legged Wolf Spiders (Genus Pardosa), Ant Mimicking Crab Spiders (Genus Amyciaea), Robber Fly, Rufous-legged Grasshopper (Xenocatantops humilis), Thread-waisted Sand Wasps (Genus Ammophila), Termite, Typical Two-tailed Spiders (Subfamily Hersiliinae), Asian Honey Bee (Apis cerana), Giant Honey Bee (Apis dorsata), Blue Pansy Butterfly, Plain Tiger Butterfly (Danaus chrysippus), Crimson Marsh Glider (Trithemis aurora), Small Brown Paper Wasps (Genus Ropalidia), White Rice Leafhopper (Cofana spectra), Moth (Campylotes histrionicus), etc.

Plant:
Bird’s-foot Trefoil (Lotus corniculatus), Kakoli Ginger (Roscoea purpurea), Fern, Shield Ferns (Genus Polystichum), Lali gurans (Rhododendron arboretum), Pacific Island Flatsedge (Cyperus cyperoides), Mock Strawberry (Potentilla indica), Pink Knotweed (Persicaria capitata), Yellow Himalayan Raspberry (Rubus ellipticus), Cotton Weed (Pseudognaphalium affine), Hill Glorybower (Clerodendrum infortunatum), Silk Cotton Tree (Bombax ceiba), Golden Shower Tree (Cassia fistula), Curry Leaf (Bergera koenigii), Pink Rain Lily (Zephyranthes carinata), Great Barberry (Berberis glaucocarpa), Tall Buckwheat (Fagopyrum cymosumetc), Cotton Weed (Pseudognaphalium affine), etc.

Ajay Narsingh Rana